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What can a portable power station run? Almost anything you plug into a wall — the real question is for how long, and whether the unit can handle the startup surge. This guide gives you the typical wattage of common apartment devices, then links to a detailed test for each one so you can size your battery with confidence.
Typical apartment appliance wattage
| Device | Running watts | Startup surge | Runs on 1000Wh for… |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wi-Fi router + modem | 10–30W | None | 1–3 days |
| Laptop | 30–80W | None | 12–24 hrs |
| LED lamp | 8–15W | None | 2–4 days |
| Refrigerator | 80–150W | ~1200W | 10–20 hrs |
| CPAP (no humidifier) | 30–60W | Low | 2–3 nights |
| TV (LED, 50″) | 60–120W | Low | 8–15 hrs |
| Microwave | 900–1200W | ~1500W | ~50–60 min |
| Window AC (8k BTU) | 500–700W | ~1500W | 1.5–2 hrs |
| Space heater | 750–1500W | Low | 40–80 min |
Low-draw electronics run for days; anything with a heating element or compressor drains a battery fast and needs strong surge headroom. Learn the method in how to size a power station for a blackout and see a full worked example in what a 1000Wh power station can run.
Can a power station run…
We bench-test the tricky loads renters actually ask about: a refrigerator, a window AC unit, and a space heater. For sizing to your specific home, see what size for a 1-bedroom apartment.
Best power station for specific devices
Some devices are important enough to choose a unit around. See our picks for a CPAP machine, a medication or insulin fridge, a fish tank, a gaming PC, and to keep you online, internet backup during an outage.
Match the unit to your load
| If you need to run… | Recommended unit | |
|---|---|---|
| Fridge + Wi-Fi + phones, all day | Bluetti AC180 (1152Wh) | Check price |
| Multi-day, expandable + solar | EcoFlow DELTA 2 (1024Wh+) | Check price |
| Just Wi-Fi, laptop, phones (light) | EcoFlow RIVER 2 Pro (768Wh) | Check price |
Running watts vs starting watts
Every appliance has two numbers that matter. Running watts is what it draws steadily; starting (surge) watts is the brief spike when a motor or compressor kicks on — often 2–3× the running figure. A fridge that runs at 120W can surge to 1,200W for a split second. Your power station must clear that surge or it will cut out, even with plenty of capacity left. Anything with a compressor (fridges, ACs, dehumidifiers) or a motor (pumps, disposals) has a big surge; electronics and heaters do not.
How to find a device’s exact wattage
Do not guess for your key devices. Check the label or nameplate (usually on the back or base) for a watt rating. If it only lists volts and amps, multiply them: watts = volts × amps. So a device marked 120V and 1.5A draws about 180W. A cheap plug-in energy meter gives you the real running draw over time, which is the most accurate way to size for a specific appliance.
Appliance guide by category
Kitchen: a refrigerator is the top priority and very doable; high-heat items (microwave, kettle, toaster) pull 1,000–1,500W and only run in short bursts. Climate: a window AC and a space heater are the hungriest loads in any apartment — possible for short stretches, not all day. Medical: a CPAP machine and a medication or insulin fridge are low-draw and run for many hours — often the single best reason to own a unit. Work & entertainment: Wi-Fi, laptops, monitors, a TV and a gaming PC are all comfortable; keep the internet up with internet backup.
How long each unit runs common loads
| Load | RIVER 2 Pro (768Wh) | AC180 (1152Wh) | DELTA 2 (1024Wh) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wi-Fi + phones (~30W) | ~21 hrs | ~32 hrs | ~29 hrs |
| Fridge (cycling, ~50W avg) | ~13 hrs | ~19 hrs | ~17 hrs |
| CPAP (~45W) | ~14 hrs | ~21 hrs | ~19 hrs |
| TV + console (~180W) | ~3.6 hrs | ~5.4 hrs | ~4.8 hrs |
Estimates assume ~85% inverter efficiency; real runtime varies with the device and settings.
The appliances to be careful with
Heating and cooling are the watt-guzzlers: space heaters, hair dryers, kettles, microwaves and window AC units all pull 600–1,500W and will drain even a large battery in under two hours. Use them in short bursts, or plan a bigger/expandable unit if they are non-negotiable. Everything else on this page — the electronics, lights and medical gear that actually matter in a blackout — sips power by comparison.
Can a power station run your whole apartment?
Short answer: no — and you do not need it to. Powering an entire apartment’s electrical panel (every outlet, central AC, an electric range) needs 5,000–10,000W continuously, far beyond any portable unit. But that is the wrong goal. In a real outage you only need a handful of things: the fridge, the internet, phones, a few lights and any medical device. A single 1000–1500Wh unit covers exactly those, which is why “can it run my apartment” really means “can it run what matters in my apartment” — and the answer is yes.
Running on solar: extending runtime off-grid
For outages longer than a day, pairing your unit with a portable solar panel changes the math. A 200W balcony or window panel can add 800–1,200Wh on a sunny day — often enough to offset a fridge’s daily draw almost indefinitely. You do not need roof access or landlord permission: a fold-out panel on a balcony, a windowsill, or even propped inside a sunny window works. Expandable units with high solar input are built for exactly this, which is why they are our pick for anyone who wants true multi-day resilience.
A note on 240V and hardwired appliances
Most portable power stations output 120V only, so 240V appliances — electric ranges, most clothes dryers, central AC and some well pumps — will not run without a specialised high-voltage unit. Anything hardwired into the wall (rather than plugged into an outlet) also cannot be powered without an electrician, which is off-limits for renters anyway. Stick to the 120V, plug-in loads that make up about 95% of what you actually need in a blackout, and you will never hit that wall.
Estimating for your own devices
To size for your exact setup, list every device you must run, note each one’s watts (from its label, or volts × amps), add them for your total running load, then multiply by the hours you want and divide by 0.85. Our free size calculator does this for you in a few clicks, and the sizing guide explains the reasoning.
More guides: Backup power for renters: complete guide · How to choose a power station (buying guide)
Frequently asked questions
What can a portable power station run in an apartment?
Anything within its wattage: Wi-Fi, phones, laptops, lights and a TV for many hours, a fridge for 10–20 hours on a 1000Wh unit, and short bursts of high-draw items like a microwave. Heating and cooling appliances drain it fastest.
Can a power station run a whole apartment?
Not the whole electrical panel — that needs thousands of watts continuously. But a power station easily runs the specific essentials you plug into it (fridge, internet, lights, medical devices), which is what matters in an outage. See the federal outage guidance.
How do I calculate runtime?
Runtime (hours) ≈ battery Wh × 0.85 ÷ device watts. So a 1000Wh unit running a 100W device lasts about 8–9 hours after conversion losses.
Size for your biggest load, not the average
Pick a unit whose surge rating clears your hungriest device and whose watt-hours cover your must-run essentials for the outage length you expect. For most apartments the Bluetti AC180 hits that sweet spot.